Portinari’s House Museum invites you to travel along Portinari’s paths as a way to connect other spaces and landscapes of the city of Brodowski, as the territory of the artist’s memory and community, which will expand the understanding of the memories of his past as recurring themes and references in his work, allowing you to know the simple truths and great feelings linked to the strong presence of the painter’s homeland in his life, his place of refuge and inspiration, empowerment and connection to the roots and origins.
Candido Portinari Square
Candido Portinari square, which used to be only a field, was inaugurated on August 22, 1969, with a bust to honor the artist.
Setting and stage for Portinari’s experiences in the city, where the artist played in his youth, where circuses would settle to fill the imagination of boys with dreams and fantasies, where the winds and storms would silence and frighten the residents of the surrounding area sand the boy Candinho, where the kites adorned the sky with colored dots and the stars sparkled and illuminated the games that freed children.
“In some starry sky
And moonshine nights, we’d lie on the
Church grass with our eyes glued
By bright wires coming from the sky
It was a game of
Filled the small church square
Their tweet accompanied
The peal of the bell of my
“If I knew where
The sound of the bell is
In the dawns of
Feast Day of St. Anthony!”
Santo Antônio Chapel
St. Anthony’s Chapel was the first church of Brodowski. It was called Nossa Senhora Aparecida, the name of the parish established in 1905. When the parish moved to a new and larger church, in 1913, it received its current name.
In 1942, the chapel was renovated with the support from city residents, including Candido Portinari, who also offered one of his paintings especially for the altar – Saint Anthony – a with the express condition registered in the Term of Donation that it could never leave this church, which appears repeatedly in works by Portinari as an element of composition, with its unique and unmistakable architecture.
”St. Anthony’s church was the nest of swallows. In the afternoons, It was a pleasure to see them in large quantities chirping and giving a spectacle of acrobatics. Coming and going from power wires, outside the church. With their twists and turns, all at once, without slamming into each other. Sometimes they’d stop in the air. Nobody threw stones. We had slings.”
“Lauro J. Almeida Pinto” Bandstand
Brodowski bandstand was built in 1922 by the then mayor, pharmacist Antônio Leite de Oliva. In 1982, it was named Lauro José Almeida Pinto, after the journalist who maintained in its ground floor, from 1940 to 1982, a speaker service.
Nestled in the heart of the city’s central square, Martim Moreira square; with the music from old bands, announcements and notices, the bandstand marked the affective memory of many “brodowskianos”. It was the setting of great love, matches and mismatches on feast days and musical Sundays.
How to forget the smell of popcorn, flirtation and sighs of hearts in love, the buzz around it, the sound of Hail Mary at the sad announcement of a death, grief and sorrow; other notices, life throbbed around the bandstand, followed its pace.
“Parties, processions, music band,
Auctions of gifts and the ringing of bells,
Walking when music started, pretty girls,
All in their best clothes…”
“There were two bands, Carlos Gomes and Ítalo-Brasileira…
The two bands each played in turn. In the bandstand on Sundays too. The girls and boys would meet there. “
Old Railway Station
The story of Brodowski is connected to the railways of Companhia Mogiana de Estradas de Ferro. In 1886, the railway that linked Campinas to Mogi-Mirim and a station in Amparo, which the extention followed the banks of the River Grande, passing through Casa Branca and Franca, arrived on the lands of Batatais.
In 1893, farmer Lúcio Enéas de Mello Fagundes donated part of Fazenda da Contenda for the construction of a station and a warehouse. Other farmers in the region supported the idea because it would facilitate the shipment of coffee grown in the region.
Companhia Mogiana agreed with the farmers and opened the new station on September 09, 1894. In honor of the inspector general of the railroad at that time, Polish engineer Aleksander Brodowski, the station was named Brodowski and it is comprised of the selected set of railway stations in the 1890s that kept its original architecture and survived over time.
Around the station, the city started. Station that saw Portinari leave to become a painter and where he often returned in search of reunion with his homeland.
“They made a stop, a stop
To load coffee in the train
Before, difficult roads, only oxcarts
Transited, which would take days and days.
Then a house here and there. “
“On the station platform
We expected the arrival of the train
Maybe something came
For us, a package of joy”
“I’d arrive in my village,
Cross it to get
Home. The joy of
Coming back was always worth it”
“The train rides were the best.
Looking at the trees, houses, animals and
Telegraph wires, I would dream.
The landscapes and their inhabitants
Seen from there seemed happy…
All Sunday best. I’d enjoy the
Train sound. In the stops, at
Small stations, there were the
Beggars, blind or legless, the
Boys hawking something and the
Daughters of the chief selling coffee from
Public Drinking Fountain for Animals
Installed near the railway station at Brodowski, for many years after the formation of the town in 1894, those who arrived with luggage and children had to use a trolley (vehicle with 4 wheels pulled by horses). That was the means of transportation in the city and to the farms.
In the city, this public fountain was used to support for the numerous residents of the rural area, densely populated in the early days of the city, provide water to the animals on the arrival and preparation for new trips, where some residents would wash themselves and clean the dust from the dirt road, revealing the rural life of the city, where the children would play against the recommendations of the adults.
It is in the group of buildings not demolished over time, with new designs configured in the urban landscape of the city, becoming an important reference element of a time and its customs in the historical path of the city and the daily lives of its residents.
A trolley passed by sporadically
Or a horseman coming from the farms”
“I was born and rode together with
Many horseman. Then I
Rode alone on cornstalk
“I cycled and
Rode horses without a saddle. I had fears
“Merry Dawn at the parties
On the farm. They’d prepare the
Horses tying them to
Trolleys. They fetched music”